Tailor s measure



unirsi) STA-Tus PATENT onirica.

AMOS STOCKER, OGDENSBURG, NEW YORK.

TAILORS MEASURE.

`Speciication of Letters Patent No. 7,402, dated May 28, 1850.

To all whom 'it may concern Be it knownthat I, AMos Stroe-RER, ofOgdensburg, in the county of St. Lawrence and State of New York, haveinvented a new andImproved lVIethod of Drafting the Fore Parts andBacksof Garments; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full andexact` description thereof, reference being had to the accompanyingdrawings and to theletters` of reference marked thereon.

The nature of my invention consists in providing a` means for takingmeasures' which are used to form the forepart and backs of garmentsto``1t the forms of persons lfor whom they are intended.

To enable others skilled in the art'to make anduse my invention, I willproceed to describethe construction of my instruments and theirapplication.

The instrument represented at Figure 1 I make from a piece of brassabout seven inches long and a halfinch wide and fone sixteenth inthickness with inches and fractions of an inch marked thereonA which" Iuse to ascertain the distance from or" near the socket bonewhere the topof back seams of garments is usually located horizontally and directlyback `(when the person being measured is in their natural standingposition) to aperpendicular line, from the most prominent part oftheback or blade bones, as represented on the annexed drawing, Fig. 4,letter B, and is called the position measure, the instrument representedatFig.' 2 is a front viewand is made from two `pieces of brass abouttwelve inches long each the end of oneA is attached to the center of theother where is also attached a common spirit level, at right angles asrepresented at letter C, the object being to ascertain when the uprightarm letter D isina perpendicular position when the arms is applied onthe back as represented on Fig. 4 the upright at letter A and spiritlevel at E.

The instrument represented at Fig. 3 I

make by attaching ,a common glass phial, such as are generally used inthe construction of spirit levels to one arm of a brass hingeY of aboutone inch in width and of sufficient length to admit a scale to beaffixed the outer edge of which is five and a half inches from the jointof the hinge the spirit level is attached to the upper arm of the hingeupon the lower arm and at right angles to it is affixed the are of acircle eX- tending upward through 'an oblong longitudinal opening in theupper arm five inches or more at the option of the maker, the outer edgeof this arc is divided into a scale of inches and fractions of an inchby the application of this instrument the slope of the shoulders isascertained as represented at Figf.

The instrument represented at Fig. 8 I make by taking a piece of linentape of about sixty inches in length and about a half inch wide, which Idivideinto a scale of inches and fractions of an inch, with figuresmarked thereon to indicate the number of inches, and made in any of theknown ways'and from any of the known substances such as tailorsgenerally use for measuring and which I use for measuring around thewaist also the breast and shoulders as represented by dotted lines onFigs. 4 and 5.

Directions how to measure: To produce the foreparts and backs asrepresented at Figs. 6 and 7 on the annexed drawings `first I take theinstrument described and represented at Fig. 8 and apply it around thewaist also around the breast near the arms and from the socket bonearound in front of the arm and back to the sameplace and is called theupper shoulder measure also from the center of the back between theshoulders over the shoulders down in front and under back to the `sameplace the measures taken are indicated by dotted lines on Figs. 4 and 5.I then apply the instrument repre sented at Fig. 2 letting the arms 6and 7 restagainst the most prominent part of the back orblade` bones asshown on Fig. `5 locatingthe upright arm D in a perpendicular positionas represented on Fig. 4 while in that position I take the instrumentrepresented at Fig. 1 and apply it as represented atletter B toascertain the distance from or near the socket bone directly back to thei perpendicular line from the most prominent part of the back and iscalled the position measure. I then apply the instrument represented atFig. 3 letting the arm 0 8 rest on the most prominent part of theshoulder as represented on Fig. 5. I then raise rule I until it is levelthen note the number of inches on the circle which is generally 2 inchesthis is called the level of shoulder. The foreparts and backsrepresented are drafted for a person measuringI 8 inches round thebreast and waist 7 shoulder measures 6 inches, and the scale dividedfrom the shoulderl measures to drafts by will be seen at Fig. 9 on theannexed drawings. 1 I

Directions for drafting the foreparts and backs represented at Figs. 6and 7: Draw line A and at right angles to it a line B from 1 to 2 islength of waist as measured from 1 to 3 is one and lg lower shoulderwhen the position measure does not exceed 1 and a inches the excess willbe divided and the fourth part will be added from 3 to I one from 8 to 4is square with line A and draw lines E and D from 1 to 5 is Jg from 4 to6 is less le lower shoulders from 6 to 7 is le and gfrom 7 to8 is Esquare with line D and draw line E by 6 from 13 to 10 is from 4 to 9'isthe position measure draw line F from 9 to 10 square with line F anddraw line G, from 10 to 14 is two halves upper shoulder measure squarewith line G and draw line H, from 14 to 15 is from 15 to 16 is from 3 to12 is from 7 to 11 is square with line Gr and draw line 7c to form backI as represented and cut and letting the back remain stationary at 7while you swing round the lower part of the back until 2 on back and 17on forepart agrees with i of waist measure while in that position markby the side seam of back on forepart as represented by dotted line at 18from 18 to 19 is of half of position measure for round of side seam formside seam as represented; next take the back and apply line A to line Has represented mark shoulder seam as represented when the slope of theshoulder is 2 inches in 5-.12 inches the length indicated on theinstrument whatever it slopes more or less must be added on or takenoff, 5g inches from the neck gorge letting the back at 22 remainstationary while being located according to the slope of the shoulders,then you go from 21 to 20 of the position for round of shoulder seamform forepart as represented and you are ready to cut variations. Youmust first locate the shoulder seam by position measure one and a halfinches then make a cross in the center of shoulder seam as representedat 24, then draw dotted lines agreeing with the position measure taken,

then slide the back forward on line H until 14 touches line L at M whichis two halves upper shoulder measure from 10 while in that position markat 23 keeping the back stationary at 23 then swing round the back untilthe edge of the back touches the cross made at 24 then proceed andregulate the shoulder according to the slope of thesame as herein beforedescribed if the slope of the shoulder is 2 inches and the position is 3then the shoulder will be locatedaccording to the dotted lines asrepresented; the other parts of the garment may be drafted in any of theknown ways.

Directions for drafting vest, Fig. 6: Draw base line A square with lineA and draw line B from 1 to 5 is of breast measure from 5 to 6 isA twothirds of half the breast measure squarewith line B and draw lime E from7 to 8 is measure taken from .95760 10 is .1; of waist measure from 11to 12 the same from 5 to 13 is 2; of shoulder measure from ljo 14 is andEl@ from 14 to 15 4 from 1 to 2 is from 2 to 3 is position measure from1 to 4 is le and el less l from 4 to 16 is from 7 to 10 and 17' ismeasure taken from 19 to 2O is of the excess of position measure from 21to 22 is lg the distance from 1 to 4 is and the formation of theshoulder is regulated substantially as herein before described andrepresented on draft Fig. 7. I sometimes apply the position measure from11 to 25 on line D square with line D and draw line P to 14 for thepurpose of locating the upper point of the shoulder on it.

What I claim as my invention is The instrument as above represented atFig. 3 for ascertaining the slope of the shoulder also the instrumentrepresented at Fig. 2 for ascertaining the measure from the socket boneto a line perpendicular to the most prominent parts of the backsubstantially as described and for the purposes set forth in thespecification.

AMOS STOCKER.

Witnesses:

CHARLES HILL, WM. W. FORBES.

